Відео

@@alexeimagher9083 starting to try to come up with a magazine catch tomorrow. Got the front hook for the lip on the front of the magazine done and a magazine stop for the rear magazine catch to prevent it from over inserting. Shaved down some wood shims that will be glued into the sides of the mag wheel to make fit the magazine. This will only work with a single stack Clinton band era magazine. Double stack mags will not feed. So pretty much limited to 10 round magazine which is still drastically better than the OEM Savage axis magazine that can only feed three rounds. Those single stack AK magazines, nobody wants them. So they sell dirt cheap for about $5 shipped everywhere. That's why I'm doing all the modifications to the rifle and not the magazine. So that I can have cheap readily available magazines for my nice little bolt gun

I am willing to do same mods on my rifle . Would you be so kind to do a vodeorecording of main steps of this process, please!!! This mod sound awesome to me!!!

Do you use polimer mags or steel mags? Could uoy recommend brands/manufacturers. How toght it fits initially?

@@alexeimagher9083 waiting on some wood glue to dry tonight and around noon tomorrow I will be getting videos of the stock removed from the rifle showing what I did, and how everything fits up. I have no idea the brand of the magazines but if you type single stack AK magazine you will find the polymer magazines available somewhere and they're usually very cheap. Has to be single stacked double stack standard AK mags will not work. This evening I did get a magazine catch modified and working so now it is a complete working setup. Only thing I'm waiting on is the wood shims I glued in the magwell to set. So by tomorrow night I will have the follow-up video uploaded answering about every question possible

@@alexeimagher9083 just now updated the follow-up video that should answer all your questions and with a working magazine latch

Hey buddy, literally just got done doing a rear wheel (Dunlop trail Max raid) with inner tube on a Africa twin on this machine. Went incredibly well. So much faster and easier than fighting with bars on these tough heavy duty tires. Zero chance of a scratched wheel.

It is the Clark 4.3 tank. clarkemfg.com/catalog/honda/xr650r-all-4-3-gal/

@@nathan00campbell Thank you

Wider tires on the XR650R caused it to handle funny. Kind of hard to explain. My dad rides the DR 650. And the widest rear tire available in the 244 is still only as wide as OEM. These tires run on the smaller side. With these tires there is no handling issues on either bike.

The video was actually posted in savageshooters.com showing how to fix a feed issue. It's the ejector plunger on the bolt face that has to be filed down at an angle similar to the Stryker on a door knob assembly. So the chassis really has nothing to do with the video itself. The rifle was having feed issues and its original stock, and the feed issues continued with the chassis and new magazine.

That's my bike in the video. Sold it already though

I made this myself, they are not commercially available. Not to my knowledge anyway. At this point I do not even own a Savage axis anymore

@@nathan00campbell ok , Thanks

Do yourself a favor and immediately start sourcing a starter clutch and buy one to sit on the shelf for that rainy day cuz you will need it. Do not start the bike in gear ever. Always put it in neutral to start the bike. The starter clutch on these bikes has been discontinued from Honda and they are near impossible to find. They're made fairly weak and tend to crack once they crack the starter becomes useless and it'll sound like a buff at a broken chain when you hit the starter button. Happen to me in the first week of having the bike. Got extremely lucky and found a guy with a starter clutch who was willing to ship it from Germany. Trust me it's a nasty fight and it's more fun to look for one when you don't need it then look for one when you do. Beyond that the bike is actually pretty sweet. I ended up selling it not long after repairing the starter clutch. Mostly due to getting a Turing bike. And then I sold that too because I just simply enjoy dual sport and off-road riding more than highway cruising.

@@nathan00campbell Appreciate it. Right now I’m struggling to replace two lost brass washers that hold the air funnels/ horns up. Other then that I’m all good. Just like you the dude who took the baffling out didn’t rejet and was running rich the build up was pretty gnarly. Dude put 40,000 then died. Sat in his garage until I found it. I’m the first person to work on it since. It’s been really cool.

I don't remember the exact part number but it's a GM clutch for a GMC 8500. 13-in clutch. And yes it was a very firm clutch using the four levers around the throw out bearing instead of the multiple finger style. If it's too hard at the pedal then you don't have your hydraulic setup correctly or you don't have enough mechanical advantage through your cable or linkage. If using hydraulics and the clutch pedal is hard you need to go with a smaller diameter master, or larger diameter slave cylinder one of the two. If the master and slave cylinder are exactly the same bore size it would be a one to one comparison which gives you no mechanical advantage at all

Thank you very much for the advice

Made it myself

@@nathan00campbell wow...look like PMAG body... did you use the metal feed and the factory follower and press fit it after some fiddle and fattle?

​@@theophilhist6455 there is a link in the description on the video that should hopefully still have my photos and whatnot of what all I did to make this work. Been quite a long time ago

@@nathan00campbell Thank you kindly. Well done.

All of the plastics are from UFO plastics. The gas tank is a Clark tank. The carburetor is a Lectron.

@@nathan00campbell wow, can you tell me model of lectron? And ufo side fairings are compatibile? Which is better, lectron or keihin fcr?

​@@ZBNZN I just went on their website, UFO plastics, and searched for my XR650R. Chose the replacement plastics but in black. As for the carburetor it is absolutely amazing. Once you get it adjusted correctly of course it's like having fuel injection. Starts perfectly, insanely responsive. And it's not near as sensitive to ethanol fuels as a regular carburetor with jets. I have absolutely no buyers remorse whatsoever. Far less moving parts than most carburetors, simplicity almost always equals reliability. I would choose this over an FCR any day of the week. The only time I would deal with an FCR is maybe on a purpose-built race bike that is going to be tuned on race day perfectly every time before use. With this carburetor I can get it set up and running correctly, then put the bike on a trailer and go a thousand miles north of here and it's still runs correctly. That's the beauty of it. Get it set right and it runs good no matter where you take the bike no matter what time of year.

@@nathan00campbellWill lectron billetron pro be ok? what about the cylinder - carburetor - airbox connections? Are they ready or do you have to assemble them yourself? In Poland, the price of the new fcr and lectron is similar, so I will probably buy the lectron if you recommend it. now I have a stock carburetor and the bike cuts out at the balance point when I'm riding on one wheel, maybe it's a float issue, but I want to change it anyway

​@@ZBNZNYou got to contact lectron through their website where you place an order and it ask you for the information on your bike. That way they can make sure to send you the correct metering rod for your your model and the modifications you have done. They're pretty much made to order for your specific bike which is why they work so good. Also why you find bad reviews. Because people will buy one in the used market and put it on a bike it's not meant for and have problems. Definitely best to contact lectron directly.

Just under 700 mi on them so far. All very hard miles. Lots of speeds in excess of 80 miles an hour up to 110 mph. All fire roads and dirt roads, yes at those speeds. Not one issue. Now that being said I did have to true the wheels and set the offset as they where all over the place.

@nathan00campbell thanks I was looking for a cheap alternative 18" rear for my yz250 woods bike. 19" sucks... lol

​@@250ridr2I went with these because finding OEM XR650R wheels is next to impossible unless they're completely trashed. Then I found out these are nothing but CRF wheels. Using a custom spacer to make work. Which works great by the way. And the wheels are drastically lighter than the OEM wheels. Which is kind of a nice bonus

I don't know the name brand of it, came with the trailer I bought. Currently using a completely different setup that I got from harbor freight that works far better. I guess I should do a video on it. The chick that was in this video doesn't work very well with a skinny 21-in front wheel. The one from harbor freight will hold the bike up on its own.

First gear is not synchronized. So unless you know how to float gears you're going to be coming all the way to a stop to get back into first. Which is not really that big a deal. Shifting from first into second can be a little tricky but it's not bad once you learn it. After that every other shift is no different than any other synchronized gearbox. The gear ratios with a 355 rear end and a 31-in tire are absolutely perfect for towing.

Probably because you've never used these ramps and have no idea what they're used for. My truck isn't even considered heavy duty when it comes to these ramps. It's less than half the weight rating. Also a pit is more dangerous than this as there is a high probability of a cave in. You would have to have concrete reinforced walls and a concrete floor with concrete pylons driven down in the ground to keep it from literally floating over time. Without doing all of that putting the weight of the truck over the top of the pit could cause it to just crush you. Far more dangerous than this setup. Being as I have worked in the construction and heavy equipment field most my life I definitely have a strong understanding of excavation.

The ramps are designed for 23,500 lb per axle and the front axle of that truck only has 9,000 lb on it. I've used the same ramps with my step deck trailer to load shit way heavier than they were ever meant for. This is in a perfectly level and square environment which is something these ramps usually never see. Should be no issue whatsoever. Also it's hard to tell from the video but the ramps are running slightly uphill so if there's ever a break failure or something the vehicle will naturally want to roll back toward the slab not off the end

No I do not. The issue is the ejector plunger on the bolt face. It needs to have an angled face similar to a door latch on a household door. So that when the round feeds up partially into the chamber the case head can slip up fully into the bolt face. The ejector plunger without the angle as OEM Savage, prevents the case head from fully seating in the bolt face keeping the cartridge at an angle causing the jam going into the chamber. I went through so many different magazines and destroyed a couple constantly bending the feed lips trying to get them right. And the whole time the problem was never the magazine. It's the ejector plunger on the bolt face. Next time the jam happens, hold the bolt tightly forward so that nothing can unjam and take a flashlight and look down in the chamber at the bolt face and you will see exactly what I'm talking about. There needs to be an angle cut into the ejector plunger with the angled side facing towards the round as it moves up into the bolt face.

@@nathan00campbellthanks so much. This explains it. I was about to start filing away at my mags. This is my first rifle and I’m bummed it’s giving me problems out of the box.

​@@jjj1981jj took me a while to find the link. But I did a write-up on this modification. And it has a crystal clear picture of the ejector plunger after the modification. Here's the link if UA-cam will let me post it. www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?69448-jamming-just-before-fully-chambering-Here-is-the-fix-for-110-10-and-axis-family

@@nathan00campbell that’s so funny I was just looking for this link. You read my mind!

@@nathan00campbell Sorry, I’m a newb. I have a 93r17. The bolt is giving me the same feeding issues you had but I’m wondering if the same thing is wrong with it. This guy shows what the ejectors and firing pin look like at 06:50 ua-cam.com/video/R9rcUC2ctV0/v-deo.htmlsi=vjmEAIPsFqkplX_s

Off of another bike that was being parted out in San Antonio

I made it myself there's a link in the description

190 would be a happy place anything less than 210 steady. Anything over 210 you're having problems. Under 190 you're having efficiency problems

Literally just got home from a 10-hour round trip trading that Corbin for a brand new mustang seat. Thanks anyway

It's hard to explain but I'll try. With the factory windshield completely unmodified in the upper or lower position it caused a lot of buffeting. Which would shake my helmet so violently at 65 mph or faster I could barely read the road signs. When I installed my VStream tall windshield that problem went away 100%. But then summer came around. And with that tall windshield I had zero air flow in my helmet. Even leaving my visor open I couldn't get any air through the helmet The windshield was too effective. So I went for a ride with no windshield at all and it was comfortable. Yes there's wind on you but not wind noise and no buffeting. So I decided to cut down the factory windshield just tall enough to protect my GPS device. You know from rocks and whatnot. And then painted the backside black for aesthetics. The outcome was better than I could have imagined. With no windshield there was a lot of pressure on my chest from the wind like there would be on pretty much any naked bike. With the modified windshield that was gone yet I still didn't get the buffeting in the helmet and had plenty of air flow to keep my head cool. Keep in mind I'm 6'5 and that plays a part too. So for my height and stature and riding position it works absolutely superior to the OEM setup. I'll be keeping my tall windshield for the winter though because that thing is amazing for staying warm or dry for that matter.

I appreciate the compliments and yes I really like it. The only thing I would like to experiment with would have been to color match the gray to that windshield. I think it would have contrasted nicely with the black detailing of the OEM front. But this looks pretty good too. And it's wonderfully functional. To be honest I would have never spent the money on the vstream windshield had I did this mod first. It resolved all the negatives of the OEM windshield

I used a string. Held one of of the string at the very lower point of the windshield and the other on near the tip of the razor knife. Lined it up with the corner of the oem shape and used the string to make the nice curve. If you look close you can see where i messed up the first time. Should have cut from the back side, not the front. Then i kept going over that same cut over and over until it was more than half way thru, turned it over and very very carefully traced the cut from the rear with 3 passes. Then i cut the very thick outer edges all the way, then bent the cut till it just popped the upper part right off. Finished it up with a bench grinder to get the heavy imperfections out, then finished up with sandpaper. Im sure there is a better way but this is how i did it. I wanted the top to be curved.

1200 lbs each. More than the entire bike weighs lol

Yeah the carabiners just add the added insurance that it can't become disconnected if a strap gets loose. They're not completely necessary but gives good peace of mind.

all of the small allisons are shit, always have been. The spicer 7 speed is not ez to find with an OD 7th. Most are direct drive.